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250 Questions You Should Ask B 4 U Buy or Build is a product of
RTA Real Estate Consultants
Service limited to instruction, consultation and referral
Roland Thomas,qualifying broker, and instructor .
Address is:
1009 East Park Dr.
Birmingham Al. 35235
RTARealEstae@gmail.com
More contact information is found in the February archive at the bottom of the page.
By Roland Thomas
Real Estate Broker /Consultant / Instructor
Remember that your real estate agent is not an expert nor or they licensed to advise you in many areas.
Here we are not presenting answers, but questions that you as the potential buyer should address and satisfy for yourself.
The agent can not determine that you will like the taste of the water or like the neighbor.
It is up to you to determine your comfort level and seek professional advice regarding this extremely big financial investment that you are about to make.
One such professional is your plumber.
I am not sure but I imagine that plumbers in all states are required to be tested and licensed. Do the research and deal only with licensed experts.
As regards plumbing:
In buying an existing home, you find that pipes are made of a variety of material from copper to lead.
Lead has been determined to be extremely hazardous to health.
There is a new type of a new type of water system you may have never seen before that is composed entirely of clear, flexible pipes that are basically hose pipes.
They are usually connected to a plastic control box with shut-off valves for each part of the house.
The hoses run up the inside wall and through the attic. There will be a feature article on this sight, about this system in the next few months.
Pipes in older homes might also be insulated with any hazardous material from asbestos to urea-formaldehyde!
Current EPA regulations forbid a variety of hazardous materials to be used in construction, but that does not guarantee the material was not used prior to the EPA ban or several years after the ban it may have been bought as salvage and installed illegally
Look under each sink including the kitchen sink to determine if the plumbing has ever been repaired or replaced.
1- Ask who replaced it.
If it were not a licensed plumber, it may cause future problems.
2-Look for corrosion or mineral build up around the faucets.
3-Look for water spots under the sink and behind commodes.
4-Turn on all water including the dishwasher and flush the commode with an "average amount" of paper to determine if the commode drains properly.
5- Is the water pressure in the tub diminished when you flush the commode?
6-How long does it take for the water to get "hot" after you turn it on in the kitchen and bath rooms?
7-How far is the hot water heater from the kitchen and baths?
8-Is the hot water electric or gas?
9-Is it properly vented?
10-Is it sitting up on a platform to prevent problems if the room is flooded?
11- If it is gas, is the heater sitting in a draft where it could easily blow out if the doors were opened and the wind was blowing?
12-If it is electric, is it properly wired?
13-If the original heater was replaced, who replaced it?
14-If the house is on a crawl space, you may want to personally climb under the house and check yourself.If you are not going to do that, make sure the building inspector will do it.
You need to check for current leaks,signs of old leaks, mold, rotten wood,or any previous damage caused by water.
On several occasions I have seen a tile floor in a bathroom that did not show signs of damage but when you inspected the floor from underneath, is was a totally rotten and could easily fall through.
15-If the house is on a cement slab you need to ask the inspector how they are gong to assure you of the conditions of the pipes in the cement.
16- While under the house someone needs to determine if the drain pipes slope from the sinks and other outlets toward the bigger pipe that leads to the outside of the house and to the sewer or septic tank.
17- If this is new construction ask to be present when the cement slab is poured.
mark pipes in case there is need for future repair but mostly be there to assure that pipes are adequately attached and they have no bends or curves that could cause blockage.
AND make sure there is a slope in the pipes downward toward the outside drain.
18-In existing or new construction, make sure there are "cut off" valves before each outlet to enable you to turn the water off for repairs without having to shut of the entire water supply.
19- more to come
We have already discussed checking the heating and air conditioning maintenance received by the current owner.
Here is a numbered format to help you as you focus on this area.
1-Do the air filters indicate that they are changed regularly?
2-How often has the current owner had the units serviced?
3-Have there been any major repairs to either unit?
4-What type of coolant is used in the cooling system?
5-What type of insulation is used in the attic and walls?
6-What is the "R" rating of the walls? What is recommended?
One of the first things many home inspectors do when they walk into a house to inspect it is they turn the air down and put thermostats on the vents to measure the current temperature. They read the thermostat again at certain intervals to determine how quickly the unit cools the house.
Undoubtedly an air conditioning unit breaking the day after a buyer moves in is frustrating. It is a major unexpected expense and can cause ill will between the buyer and seller.
7-Someone, whether it is the buyer or seller,should buy a home warranty that covers such items. See your agent about a warranty.
8-Another factor to consider in the heating and air situation is the strength of the units.
Are they adequate to heat and cool the house?
High ceilings , morning and afternoon sun and two story structures need extra units or ducts to properly heat or cool the house evenly.
9-The location of the thermostat will play a part in balancing the temperature from one room to another. A thermostat near the laundry room, the kitchen, the hot water heater or near windows may be affected by the heat given off from stoves, dryers and such. It will make the house heat or cool unevenly.
10-A room sitting off from the main structure can be cold all winter because there are not enough vents or insulation.
You can not predict all of the factors for all seasons of the year, considering that you will only visit the house a few times before you buy but you should consider and discuss all of these factors with your inspector.
If you are negotiation price, you may need to factor in some extra vents or insulation.
This is especially good information if you are building.
Many utility companies offer free consultations about these matters.
Also climate control such as humidifiers, de-humidifiers and air purifiers may need to be considered and inspected.
11- Ask if the air units are an unconventional type.
Occasionally I will see a house that is heated by a type of steam pipes with blowers that cause the air to flow across the pipes and heat the house.
I am sure there are dozens of heating systems from solar to wood that I have never seen.
Heating units lend themselves to unique systems as we attempt to become more fuel
efficient and environmentally friendly. You should ask about your unit and ask for literature, guarantees, and manufacturer's names.
A problem that I experienced was with a buyer who had one of those unique types of heating and no service person knew how to service or repair it.
The following are a series of questions you should discuss with your home inspector.
12-Ask about ancillary heat that would be used to supplement the basic unit or that would be used during emergencies such as power outages.
13-do any of these supplemental or ancillary units present a threat of fire or accident?
Many of these heaters are installed by the owner and may be placed too close to walls, furniture, drapes, bedspreads, or carpet.
14-ask if there are gas logs and do they smell when they are first turned on?
15-Are all buttons and switches that control the air easy to turn "on" and "off"?
16-Do all stove eyes work and are they easy to turn "on" and "off"?
17-Is the gas meter in a safe place that will prevent people hitting it with a lawn mower and rupturing the pipes?
18-Is the chamber for the heating unit in a high, safe place that will not cause danger if the room is flooded?
19-Is the heating chamber properly ventilated? Often different types of tape are used to seal cracks in the vent pipe and they lose their ability to stick as they age.
20-Is the insulation from the heating chamber to the outside of the building good or is it patched or torn?
21-Seek advice from your local utility company to determine if there are any more questions you should consider.
I have visited the flattened sight of a house that blew up because of a gas leak.
It was devastating. Everything for several hundred feet was as flat as a cement slab.
Fortunately in the case I saw no one was at home and no one was injured.
22- Ask your home inspector if there are any other issues that casuse him or her concern.
An inspector whom I have often followed around, once pointed out a bent copper pipe above the hot water system.
He noted that because of the way it was bent, it reduced the amount of water that could flow and consequently could cause a build up of pressure that could be dangerous.
23- Remember to notice the location of the thermostat as we have mentioned. If it is near an open door or the television or any electrical items it may be affected by the heat generated by the items.
24-Do drains from the air or from a de-humidifier drain properly?
Are the pipes clear or clogged?
Do they drain and run down the side of the building or leak into the house?
This is probably the most fun part of searching for a house.
The bad thing is that often you and I both find design flaws in inexpensive houses and mansions.
As we discuss different area of design, apply these test to the house you are considering buying or building.
One unnecessary problem I find is guest baths that do not offer privacy.
Many are located immediately off of the entrance, kitchen or eating area.
Can you see the kitchen from the front door?
Can every door be opened without blocking a passage?
Is there enough insulation in rooms that extend out from the main house and have three outside walls?
See the bottom of the page for specific design considerations for bed/bath/ kitchen and other areas.
Click on "May Archives" and chose your subject.
Bad Baths
One of the biggest mansions in a gated community failed to have adequate closet space for the clothes.
I personally saw the closet and bath area and although there was marble on the floor and high ceilings and gold faucets, the storage was inadequate for such a large house.
The owner chose a bedroom suite on another floor as her closet and she has to go through the foyer and up the winding stairway to get dressed.
The contractors was not focused when they designed the area.
Another design that I do not like is one that requires the owner to come out of the bath in order to get to the closet. Hopefully they remember to lock the bedroom door before they shower or they have to pack and carry everything with them.
Some people design their area like this to prevent moisture in the clothes, but I prefer the closet and bath together .
Remember to ask for double sinks and counter top space beside the sink.
Just like in the kitchen design I prefer pullout drawers to doors and shelves.
Is there enough privacy in the guest bath room?
Can you see a bathroom room the front door, or the kitchen or other public area?
Occasionally I see a ceiling fan in a bathroom.
I think that is a great idea.
It has nothing to do with ventilation but but it serves to cool the room in the spring and fall when the air conditioning is not "on".
It also serves to reduce concentrations of moisture all year long.
A bathroom design problem that caused my daughter some unexpected trouble about thiry years ago when she was about two years old had t do wihth the common manner in which we place drawers in bathrooms.
At about age two she closed the bathroom door and opened a drawer in the counter next to it, thus blocking her ability to re-open the door.
At that age you are unable to make figure the logistics of the problem, so her solution was to panic and scream for her mother.
It took some time and manipulation for my wife to work through th tiny crack in the door and push the drawer back.
It is very common to see counters flush with the wall at the bathroom door but altermnative plans might be considered.
With the emphasis on big open spaces, I have seen many homes in which the owner who wants to go from the bedroom, has to pass through open entertainment area to get to the kitchen.
If the children or spouse are entertaining and someone is sick and thirsty, they have to dress or be embarrassed as they interrupt the group on their way to the kitchen.
This problem can be solved in a two-story house with a feature affectionately known as
"pajama stairs".
It is a second set of stairs that come down near the kitchen or the back of the house to allow for such situations.
Questions:
1-Is there adequate room in the master closet for all of the items the couple may have?
2-can you get a shower and get dressed without having to lock off the entire bedroom?
3-Can you get to the kitchen from the bedroom without passing through public areas?
4-I personally recommend that you put all bedrooms, but especially the master in the back of the house, which hopefully is facing south. This is even more true if you are in a garden home or "walking neighborhood".
5-Do you have adequate duct work and insulation in the bedrooms to prevent unpleasant temperatures. People may have a tendency to ware less clothes in the bedroom and the duct work should accommodate for that.
6-If you are building or buying look at the view or even worse, who may be able to see you!
I remember a million dollar mansion where the neighbors had a clear view of the interior of the house.
If you are building, consider this situation and often a slight modification in the design can solve the problem.
A lady once told me that she had covered her second story master bath windows with plantation blinds and it took several months before a neighbor told her that she should angle her blinds in the other direction. When she angled the blinds down toward the street , it exposed the bath area to the street !
Go to the May Archives at the bottom of this page for the a complete index of subjects.
This blog will contain over 250 question that you should ask B 4 U buy or build ,including
"Was arsenic used to treat the lumber in the deck?
"Is there fluoride in the water?"
"How often is the water system out of service"
"Are there hazardous materials buried on the premises?"
"What about the sexual predator website?"
"Do the neighbors have guns?"
and more
Design -
013-Traffic Flow - It is obvious that you will determine if the floor plan is adequate for your needs but is is interesting to see plans that have major flaws in them.
Imagine the house with 12 or 15 people in it at one time.
When the dishwasher is open does it block the traffic that is bringing plates from the table?
Are there two exits from most public rooms that will allow traffic to enter and exit to the other rooms?
Are the halls wide enough for two people to pass?
Would 36 inch doors or 42 inch doors be more accommodating than 30 inch doors and what is the difference in cost?
Are there areas that will will be congested with a crowd that can be modified by re-designing or knocking out a wall or adding a door?
Can the homeowner get to the kitchen without going through public areas? In two story houses we recommend "pajama stairs" mentioned in another section.
Can inexpensive additions add space. Such items as a screen porch off of the kitchen are less expensive than a big eat in kitchen and are useful in mild weather.
A shelf above the sink that reaches out to the porch will help traffic flow because it can be used to pass items from the fridge, the sink and the stove to the outside table without blocking the door leading to the porch.
014-No matter how frequently you use your kitchen, there are times when you need it to be designed of efficiency.
One of the best designs i have ever seen was in an apartment.
It was not elaborate but was actually a narrow room with counters and a sink on one side and a stove, cabinet and refrigerator on the other side.
As you entered the room on the right was:
counter with silverware drawer and dishwasher--sink----pantry
On the left was: refrigerator---cabinet---stove --exit to hall
Several things made it work smoothly.
You could cook and not interfere with the people getting dishes to set the table or items out of the refrigerator.
After you cooked you could place food on the counter to your left and people did not have to cross over to get the cooked food to place on the table.
The exit to the hall allowed people to enter and get to the pantry or laundry room without interrupting the cook.
The cook was within arms length of the pantry if ingredients were needed.
Pantries are great!
There is something about the logistics of a pantry that allows for much more storage.
The laundry room off of the kitchen allows the cook to monitor clothes while cooking.
The laundry room shelves also has large shelves for big items.
An Extremely important feature to have in a kitchen is a space between the refrigerator and the stove. This is a great place for that counter that was mentioned in the apartment design. It also makes a great storage space for large pots and pans.
Often I have seen the refrigerator adjacent to the stove and presents the possibility of a fire hazard.
Many refrigerators are covered Whit a vinyl that will ignite if heated.
One of the most disturbing cases of this stove adjacent to a fridge was in an upscale high-rise building.
The problems is that I know a professional team of designers had put this building together and with all of their expertise they had left the residents of the building venerable to fire hazards with their over site.
Do not assume that your building is well designed and all features are safe .
Do your own evaluation!
Another good feature to consider in designing your kitchen is pull out drawers instead of cabinets with doors and shelves.
It allows much better use of the backs of these areas because you can pull them out to get to the back and especially in the bottom, below the cabinets it will be much more convenient when you do not have to get o your knees to look in the back of the shelves.
Only abpoout one in ten of the people to whom I have shown houses over the years
Coming Soon- The complete book- Avoiding Household Horrors
Questions your agent can not and should not answer for you.
Other Walls and Spaces:
Only about one in ten of the people to whom I have shown houses over the years have addressed the problem of fitting furniture into the house.
I remember dealing with a couple that was having us to build them a house.
I did not see them for a few months after the initial meeting with our builder and I stopped by to see them before the roofing was to be applied.
The lady expressed her dismay because she had modified the floor plan to add a bay window in the bedroom but she had not allowed enough wall space for all of her bedroom furniture.
The fact that one wall had a door to the bathroom and another door to the closet limited the size of furniture that could be place on it.
I think she felt the draftsman who had modified the plans would consult with her to see that the floor plan flowed smoothly with her furniture arrangement.
The draftsman had not known about the size, shape and amount of furniture she had planned for the bedroom and consequently her vision for the bedroom was impossible because she simply did not have enough wall space.
When you envision your rooms, plan several alternative arrangements of the furniture and build the walls, window and doors accordingly.
Moving a door to the edge of the wall instead of the center will allow more room but will it also block other features.
Even in a small house, you should have at least 4 wall spaces that will accommodate a 6 foot piece of furniture without interference from doors, widows or vents, plus you should have at least one inside wall that is solid.
016-Morning sun- It seems ideal to imagine have the morning sun come flowing into the breakfast room or bedroom with the flowers blooming and the birds singing in the background.
But too much of a good thing is too much!
During daylight saving time the sun might might awaken you at 4:30 or 5:00 A M.
Indirect sunlight is preferable.
As you preview houses or build, consider the path of the sun as it hits the house, especially in the summer months.
Will the sun hit the wall across from the bed or hit the pillows directly.
Some design implementation can help direct or control the sun.
A feature that I like is a small porch off of the bedroom which will serve as an awning to prevent direct sunlight.
With french doors it serves to expand the living space and provides a romantic spot to enjoy the moonlight.
Remember that in another place I have also suggested placing the master bedroom and hopefully all bed rooms at the back of the house to ensure privacy. Preferably the bedrooms are on the south side of the house to assure more warmth.
Closing thoughts--
017- I would always want a door in the garage.
Preferably it would be between two garage doors.
This would assure me that the garage is wide enough to allow two vehicles into the garage and there would be adequate room to open car doors without denting the other car.
The door in the garage should be a steel security door. Burglars favor garage doors because they may be away from the main part of the house and there would be less chance for people in the house to hear them break in.
The garage entrance also allows you to enter and exit that part of the house without
raising and lowering the overhead car doors.
018-In designing your house add "spaces" near the front and back doors that are big enough to set a small chest of drawers for holding gloves, flashlights, and other items that a person might need to access as they go in and out.
It is also a good place for a mirror over the chest and a coat and hat rack if a closet is not nearby.
If no closet is near the entrances leave floor "space" to put shoes, an umbrella stand and a chair for sitting while removing or putting on weather gear.
I see formal foyers without closets and especially garages and back doors that do not have a "space" for personal items.
My wife and I were touring some new construction a few years ago with our children .
The houses were retro design from the 1920's. As we went through the halls we notice a "space" in the hall that was larger that the rest of the hall. My wife shared with our children that there was always a "space" in the center of those houses to place a chair, a small table and the family's one telephone.
019-One of the features that I like and seldom see is L-shaped floor plans, with the extension going out to the back of the yard.
There is some extra expense in this design but i think it more that pays for it's self in the extra living space it creates.
This plan lends it's self to elegant court yards, patios, porches, and increased privacy.
The plan seems to double the size of the living area whether your house is large or small.
For just the cost of sod,or stone and french doors or full length windows, you can create an elegant area which opens the other rooms up and brings the design of the house together with one focal point.
More coming soon
